Second serve of Tiramisu

I made myself a second Tiramisu after finding myself wearing my first version to work on a weekly basis. I bought this lovely and bright cotton lycra fabric specifically for this pattern, but in it's first wash (with the fabric for this dress), it developed a few blue stains. Note to self - don't be lazy wash only like colours together in their first wash.

 

Being the second run through, it went together very quickly. I couldn't remember if I had moved the notches on the pattern like Steph had suggested in an email to me. It does show up some drag lines on the midriff that I don't notice in real life.

 

The weather is starting to cool down now, so I am going to experiement with layers to see how long I can wear this for. I am a wimp when it comes to cold weather - I do like to wear bright colours but need to wear a few long sleeved layers normally, so not sure I would cope wearing the shorts sleeves during a cold day. For my next version. I am thinking of changing the bodice to a tank style and keeping the waistband and skirt portion. Maybe I should think of doing something with sleeves for wintertime.

 

I should add that to my to-do list which, as like most sewist, is a mile long. I am contemplating a show entry (for which I have less than a month to get done), dreaming of new jackets but currently working on some wool pants which I thought was going to be an easy project but giving me grief with lots of wrinkles.

The Tiramisu

 

 

This pattern made me realise I am a bit stuck in my ways, sewing wise. I was put out of my comfort zone a couple times and it wasn't in regards to the sewing portion at all.

#1: I am not a huge fan of paper tissue patterns. I always trace my patterns now and I hate am used to tracing on thick paper. Okay, so I got over that. It is not too hard, especially as the pattern pieces do not overlap. The tissue has also compacted back down to normal size.

 

#2: Cutting layout. I have been sewing knits for oodles of years. Have always folded along the grain - find the rib and fold along it. Easy. I found it hard to trust that the knit was okay folding it a different way, especially as the cutter had made a mess of the cut edge and it was way crooked.

 

#3: I had to cut it on the floor, as that is the only space I had wide enough. I hate intensely dislike cutting on the floor. the only other place wide enough would have been my dining table but I don't cut there in case of scratches.

 

 

My bindings were way off grain so I ended up recutting by first folding along the grain to make sure both sides of the fold were on grain.

 

According to the measurements, I was a 35A. When I test fitted, it was very loose, so I took the side seams in around 2cm on each side. Without the skirt, the top portion seemed to fit fine. It was still a little loose but according to the instructions, the dress ease was designed with a relaxed fit.

 

When I attached the skirt, I was underwhelmed with the result. The weight of the skirt drastically pulled down the bodice but at the same time there was bagginess to the side of the bust and in the armpit area.  This was mainly because of the very stretchy rayon elastane fabric I had used. It was a far from flattering look.

 I compared the 35A pattern I had used to the 30, and worked out the 30A was closest to the adjustments I had made/needed (narrower, less length). Luckily I had extra fabric to recut a new bodice.

The fit is now spot of and much more flattering and comfortable. The bustline is where it should be, there is no puffiness in the armpit area and the arm bindings are fitted how I like them.

 My favourite part would have to be the skirt. I love the drape the bias creates.

 

  I hardly ever buy patterns, let alone new and current ones but I had been super impressed with Steph's dedication and work ethic and of course the design and couldn't wait to try this pattern. Steph has done an awesome job with her first printed pattern. I love that she experimented and broke a lot of the traditional "rules" for sewing with knits. It challenged my mindset and I am excited about her future patterns.