Thursday, July 01, 2010

More work pants for me, an essay on buying fabrics online and some fitting issues

This is another version of the straight legged, fly front Burda pants, with slanted pockets. This time I used a wool blend from Fabric Warehouse Sydney. I have been doing a lot of online fabric shopping of late. It can be the only way to access some quality fabrics without travelling too far. The only problem is having to rely on the descriptions to be accurate, and being willling to work with something that is not exactly what you envisioned.

Take this wool blend fabric. I have been looking for a black wool fabric that is not too exxy for a while. I was hoping to stumble across a black wool crepe. The first time I purchased some (also from FWS) I ended up with some very lush but heavier weight than I wanted fabric. It is going to be a jacket in time, but I needed black pants. While I did not manage to win the auction, I was given a second chance (woo hoo). And while the fabric is fabulous, again it is not exactly what I wanted. Actually, when I first recieved it, I thought it was navy. After comparing it to some navy and black thread, it is not navy, but I don't think it is quite black either. A very dark navy maybe.

Anyway, I am pretty happy with the results. I have some whiskers happening here - I did not clip under the fly, so maybe that has contributed. When I look at the pictures, I am thinking maybe the straight legs are not the best choice for me after all. Or maybe it is okay in a casual fabric, but not a dressier fabric. I am halfway through sewing a red version, but my next pair might be the wider leg version again.
Okay, fitting now. Most of my fitting issues I can live with. They are not uncomfortable so that is why I have not tried too hard to address it. Yesterday I was researching how to fix the pooling of fabric that happens in my lower back in tops.

It looks a little bit like I have swayback issues, but I don't have a swayback. Through reading, I have found people have similar issues when they have a small waist and large bottom. That sounds like me. I took some pictures of the different alterations* I tried. (*only pinned out).

First I pinned out a diagonal wedge, as that is how the back looked like it was pooling to me. More is pinned out at centre back and it tapers out at the side seam. It did get rid of the wrinkles at the back pretty well, but I was unsure if I did the right thing because I did not find any alterations done like this online.

Above I have pinned out a wedge going down the centre back. I could still see wrinkles pointing up and out with this, but again I have only pinned it so it is not really a true indication.

Above is the traditional sway back tuck. It worked pretty well too from the back, but not from a side view. Actually, none of these look any good from the side and they were affecting the front as well.
I had a look at some of the dresses that I had made earlier and realised I did not have any pooling problems with them. They had darts in the back. So I tried pinning out some darts. Yes, they are in the wrong placce.

While it doesn't look brilliant in the photo, it was the only method than looked decent from the side view.
So maybe for now I will choose shirts and jackets with princess seams or back waist darts or add shirring there until I figure out the best solution.

1 comment:

  1. They look great Marie :) I have a few whiskers on mine too - not quite sure how to fix them yet, so I will see what they look like in the photos.


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