Two simple tops

I was able to cut out this Sorbetto tank top (sans the front pleat) when I was cutting out this skirt. It sat around for weeks because I did not have any fabric suitable for using as bias binding. The sateen is very lightweight and I did not have any black voile or similar lying around. The fabric that I found I also used to make the next top.

I made my first  (unblogged) version of Burdastyle magazine #103 from 5/2011 last year. I am always on the look out for pull on woven tops as I seem to wear these a lot for work. It has raglan sleeves and 4 small pleats at the centre front.

When I made it last year, I actually made it in a length between #102 and #103 (which are essentially the same pattern, as well as #104 the dress - no idea why these are deemed three separate patterns). Version 1 had the split sleeves but for this version I just sewed the seam shut.

The top can be worn belted or not. You can see how it blouses over the belt in the photo above. It does look a little maternity when not belted but I like how cool and comfortable it is this way.

These were very quick makes. I made both of them in a couple of hours. I found the world's easiest way of getting the perfect length of bias tape - I just sewed on most of the way around and then followed the directions here - just without the glue. No idea how I was doing it previously - just bumbling along until it looked right

Cherry blouse of doom

This shirt started off as Burda #119 from Burda magazine 7/2007. I was looking for something to use up a cherry print cotton voile that had sat in my stash for years and was crying out to be made into a shirt.

This was one of those tops. It was extra time consuming because I decided to underline each piece (the fabric was too sheer and I don't really want to wear a singlet in summer). As I was pressing out a stubborn crease mark (years of sitting folded in the stash) , the dye from the cherries bled in some places. This was after a rigorous pre-wash. The placket band turned out looking rubbish so I changed the front to have the placket running all the way and recut the band.

 I originally made this top to wear to work. However, it has been sitting in my wardrobe for weeks. The blouse is also a little short because I made adjustments to the length above the waist and did not think to add some length back in. There is a gap between the bottom of my blouse and the shorts. Ain't nobody got time for that. These pants are a slightly different coloured red but there is not gap so I may still be able to make it work.

 

There are two things I don't like about the pattern. Firstly is the weird pleats on the back neckline - I did not pay much attention when I traced the pattern. I really think some darts would look better. It looks like an error in sewing rather than a design element. The other is a felt like the gathers ended too low. I really don't need gathering over my stomach. It needs to start and finish at least 5cm higher up.

My solution for the not enough button problem was to not make buttonholes in the collar. I never button this bit up anyway. I am sure you could understand I did not want to waste more time running to the shops to buy a couple of buttons for a top that was taking much more time than it should have.

Kwik Sew 3472 - another green knit dress

There are some really cute Lady Skater dresses out there in the blog world. I was going to give the pattern a go when I saw the line drawing and recalled a Kwik Sew pattern that has been in my pattern stash for years. I can't even recall when I bought this it was that long ago.

 

 

Kwik Sew 3472 has two views. View A is a turtleneck, long sleeved, longer skirt version. I made view B, the half sleeved, shorter skirt with the jewel neck. Obviously you can mix up the views as you like.

I used a rayon elastane knit which my coverstitch hated. I actually had to sew strips of fabric to beef up the sleeve hemlines, so that it would not skip the stitches. I actually left the hem raw because I did not want to have the same problem with the hem.

 

 

Below is how the pattern sewed up. What a let down. the pattern is described as having a drop waist, but it was not was I was envisioning.

 

I sought feedback from the ladies over at the Crafty Mamas Forum who suggested taking in the side seams as well raising the waist seam and taking up the hem. Well, first I chopped 10cm off the bottom hem before deciding to bite the bullet and cut the waist seam out, shorten the bodice, reduce the width and reattach the skirt. Hardly rocket science, I just prefer to unpick and keep the integrity of the pattern as much as possible. The side seams of the skirt had to be fudged to match up with the smaller bodice piece.

 

I will be transferring the changes to the pattern for next time though, it ended up being a great little dress for work althought it was a little windy today. This is how I wore it to work.



Snuggly blue jumper

 

I am still waiting for Winter to hit my city - I am such a wimp with the cold and require at least a coat by this time of year. I thought something new to wear to work would lift me out of my -the-holidays-are-too-short-I-don't-want-to-go-back-to-work mood I was in. Not sure if it was the new jumper or not, but I was actually happy and maybe a little bit excited about returning to work. I do actually enjoy teaching (love kids learning), just not the rush around in the morning and afternoon, preparing meals etc. And the commute.

 

 

My new jumper is a repeat of Jalie 2449, which I made last year. I used all of the same modications with the neckband as last time, as it really sits nicely at the back.

The fabric is a blue marle knit from Darn Cheap Fabrics online store (which has very exxy postage). And like my Jalie 2449 outfit from last year, this is a completely Jalie outfit again. Love those patterns

Second serve of Tiramisu

I made myself a second Tiramisu after finding myself wearing my first version to work on a weekly basis. I bought this lovely and bright cotton lycra fabric specifically for this pattern, but in it's first wash (with the fabric for this dress), it developed a few blue stains. Note to self - don't be lazy wash only like colours together in their first wash.

 

Being the second run through, it went together very quickly. I couldn't remember if I had moved the notches on the pattern like Steph had suggested in an email to me. It does show up some drag lines on the midriff that I don't notice in real life.

 

The weather is starting to cool down now, so I am going to experiement with layers to see how long I can wear this for. I am a wimp when it comes to cold weather - I do like to wear bright colours but need to wear a few long sleeved layers normally, so not sure I would cope wearing the shorts sleeves during a cold day. For my next version. I am thinking of changing the bodice to a tank style and keeping the waistband and skirt portion. Maybe I should think of doing something with sleeves for wintertime.

 

I should add that to my to-do list which, as like most sewist, is a mile long. I am contemplating a show entry (for which I have less than a month to get done), dreaming of new jackets but currently working on some wool pants which I thought was going to be an easy project but giving me grief with lots of wrinkles.

Good sewing day, bad sewing day

Thursday was a good sewing day. After shopping for groceries, I devoted the day to sewing some pants. Normally I get a bit distracted when sewing for any longer length of time and will usually finish a pants project over 2 or 3 days. I kept going at these since I want to increase my sewing production, and have other projects I want to get onto.

 

The pattern is Jalie 2909. I have made this pattern several times but always as shorts, never actual pants. Like the jeans, I folded out a little of the flare to make the legs more straight. 2.5cm each side seam, so a total of 10cm of flare is removed from each leg. The pattern uses a stretch woven pattern. I did add some length to the back crotch length as per usual (based on my pants block) but obviously the block doesn't translate as well. I will continue to make these pants as they are uber comfortable, maybe just trying different alterations each time. I just need to find some more bengaline. This stuff is so lovely.

I used a charcoal grey cotton/nylon/lycra bengaline, purchased from The Fabric Store in January of last year. There is a slight woven stripe running down the length of the pants. Like the Jalie jeans I just finished, I used a curved waistband borrowed from a Burda pants pattern. Before topstitching around the waistband, I quickly basted the inner band so that it is very neat on the inside.

 

Saturday was not a great sewing day. I was going great guns when I realised I had made a boo boo and had traced a pattern 2 sizes two big (bad memory - I thought my last My Image pattern was one size larger than my burda pattern, turns out it is actually one size less). The underbust seam is close to my waist and it is huge. And there is not way of fixing it at the moment. 

Two simple knit tops

I have used Kwik Sew 3242 before to make the skirt pattern but this was the first time making the top. Not much to write about, I just wanted something simple that wasn't my usual Jalie tee. The fabric is Stella knit from Crafy Mamas Fabrics. For some reason, I had a lot of trouble using my coverstich on the binndings. It did not like sewing them and kept missing stitches. Perhaps it was the new green thread I was using, I had already inserted new needles.

 

The cowl top is from the Winter 2011/12 edition of the My Image magazine. I just left the sleeves off and turned the sleeve allowance in (seeing as I had had a lot of trouble with the bindings on my last knit project). I bought the material from The Fabric Store in Brisbane when they were having their 40% off sale. It is a delightful rayon knit which ended up just being one of those painful fabrics. First, it stretched out when I had washed it. I purchased 1m and ended up with close to 1.7m. And it was off grain. Decided at that point I needed to treat it more carefully and wet the fabric and let it dry flat.

After letting it dry the second time, it was more on-grain so I cut out the top and sewed it up. The coversitch machine hated it, so I did the arms on the sewing machine and only hemmed it on the CS. After one wash, it has stretched out of shape  (my fault,must have cut it off grain after all); shredded at the hem, made a hole where I have topstitched. And it wrinkles like crazy.

I do like the colour though.

An oldie but a goodie

I spend a portion of my day at work sitting on the floor. Generally it is when we are playing literacy games that require a flat surface (most desks are at different heights making it near impossible to play memory). I need to sit on the floor to preserve my back - I simmply cannot sit on a chair when kids are on the floor. Most days this term I have worn shorts to work, but I have also started wearing my Tiramisu dress because it's full skirt keeps my modestly when I am on the floor. And it is comfortable and fun.

 

I wanted to make some more knit dresses suitable for work. I have made another unblogged Tiramisu but I wanted something for Winter. I bought this plaid ponte and immediately thought of the perfect pattern to make it in - Burda magazine 9/07 #121, a knit pinafore dress. However, my old university lecturer popped into my head at that moment and I wondered if the dress was practical enough for work with the pegged hemline. He told us to our work attire should be professional, practical and comfortable and I have always stuck by these rules because that is what I do(I used to take it to the extreme and wear joggers in my first year out).

Too bad Dennis. I will be wearing the dress to work whether it fits your rules or not. It is so comfortable and will be great for wearing in with 3/4 and full sleeved tees in all sorts of colours and of course stockings.

 



 

 I made the dress entirely on the sewing machine, as I though the overlocker would add to much bulk at the seams. I also wanted to baste the seams first and try on because I was afraid the dress wouldn't fit properly. I shouldn't have worried because the fit is spot on and I am sold on working with ponte. Actually, I lie. I did go back and overlock the seam joining the bodice to the waistband for added stability.

 

Sorbetto in lace

Even though I was feeling a little burnt out (work and stresses at home) I decided to make my lace Sorbetto rather than hitting the couch on Friday.

 

The lace is underlined in a cotton broadcloth that I purchased at the same time as buying this lace.  Next time I underline, I will look in the other fabric store in town for a nicer underlining fabric. Underlining this lace was a lot trickier than my black and white Sorbetto as well as a yet to be blogged lace dress for my daughter. It stretched out and I had to recut it before I basted it to the underlining.

 I had meant to cut the fabric the other way but it deson't look so bad this way either. I only bought 1m so not enough to recut. I cut the top without the pleat.

 I finished the edges with bias binding on the inside. I prefer the binding on the inside but it does make it easier for my bra strap to show.

If I do decide to make the Sorbetto again, I will add some flutter "sleeves" I think, for a little more sun protection at work.

Am I the last one?

To sew a Sorbetto that is. This was the fabric I was willing to sacrifice to see how the pattern goes before committing to a lace version. This fabric is actually a sheer voile but I underlined it with cotton broadcloth so it would be work acceptable and because I don't like wearing singlets to work in our humid summer.

 

It is a fabulous fit and not a wrinkle at the back - which is always a plus. So on to the lace Sorbetto. Bring on the school holidays. I need more sleep.

Yellow spot blouse

I have had this Burda blouse (105 from 5/2008) traced for a while, but I only got around to making it up this week. I really love the pleated neckline finished with binding - it makes a nice change from the collared shirts I usually wear to work in warmer weather.

I am not so keen on the fold up sleeves. They just look awkward. But seeing as the fabric is a sheer voile and I need a singlet underneath, it is more suitable as a transition piece anyway and the sleeve length is not too bad.

I used this blouse to practise my bound button technique.

The pattern actually has you make casing for the elastic but I just use shirring elastic. Probably not the best choice for this delicate fabric though.

Fingers crossed this post works. My poor computer is in the fix up shop and my work computer is not displaying blogger properly. I have uploaded the pictures using picasa instead.

I have a confession

I enter things in the local show. Things I have sewn. Every year. For about 6 or 7 years now. I started entering items because I was bored witless as a SAHM and needed a goal with a deadline to motivate me. I no longer need a goal to motivate me but I like to enter something all the same. Probably because I never recived many prizes when I was younger.

The last few years I have been entering in the Natural Fibres Creations competition. You enter through the local show and then there is a state final held at the Ekka if your entry comes first or second.

This year my daywear entry (trench coat, shirt and pants) came in second. I am thrilled to say the least.  My aim for this year and future years is to only enter garments that I will actually wear - so that genereally rules out the evening wear and creative clothing categories and makes the daywear category a little more restrictive since I am not doing fun racewear.

I am only a little cranky that the Lord Mayor called me Murray. That totally sent me back to high school.

Burda 125-10-2009 - I think I am on to a winner!

I had the help of Steph. She drafted up a pants block and showed me how to tweak it to produce a better pants pattern. Let’s just say she was very patient in dealing with me. I can certainly recommend her pants block service. Just don’t be like me and jump to the wrong conclusion. It will certainly not help with the email communication.

I chose this pattern because it worked well with the requirements of Steph’s simple pants pattern. My usual pants patterns have yoke/waistband. But then agin, the Jalie patterns I use have a straight waistband so this is like the best of my favourite patterns. I had to change the waistband to a curved on when I tried on the pants with the waistband. There was just too much ease there and it was not a good look.

My main issue with fitting pants was the rear view. There was always these lines under the butt. Not a great look. These are gone with the adjustments that I had to make.Woohoo. It is a little baggy back there, but I put that down to using a very stretchy wool blend fabric. I had no idea how much stretch there was when I selected the fabric to use for the first-after-fitting-the-muslin. I had to take in the waist significantly because of the stretch factor.

 These pants are so comfortable. I can't wait to wear them to work.

Jalie 2908 - shorts length in cream

There was a gap in my wardrobe for a pair of cream/stone coloured shorts. I decided to make the Jalie jeans pattern again when I found a stretch brushed cotton twill fabric at a local fabric store.

This is the third time I have made this pattern. However, I still learn things each time I make it. I guess it really depends on the thickness and stretchiness of individual fabrics. This cream fabric was super stretchy and really thick. Even princess struggled through topstitching the corner of the waistband. Thankfully I have found a tutorial for a different waistband method, so I will try to remember to use it (it is from page 31 of the Jeans sew along on Pattern review)

.

As I was sewing these up, I thought they might end up in the bin. Everything was going wrong. I had topstitching problems (turns out I had the needle in wrong, whoops). I had cut out part of the Jalie 2909 pattern and I had to re-cut. The thick layers of fabric wouldn't fit under princess's presser feet (I found that if I dropped the feed dogs, I had a enough room to manipulate the seam into place before raising the feed dogs again). And the dramas of topstitching on a machine who's straight stitch is left of centre. I ended up using a rolled hem foot that I bought from eBay for topstitching, because it gave me a good reference.

I wasn't particularly happy with the topstitching on the pockets, but I think I got better as I went along. Being super stretchy, I had to reduce the width of the pants - they were a little too baggy with too many wrinkles at the back. The good news was I just took the side seams in another 5mm. The shorts are really comfortable, easy to move in and will be perfect for work (check out my method for whipping children into shape)

Hmm, the only thing wrong with the super stretchy fabric combine with Jalie's instruction of sewing the leg seams is there is a mighty big camel toe happening down there. Oh dear!

Yes, I just put a photo of myself with a camel toe on the web.

Keeping it real

The thing I like about getting older is that I can be more realistic because I have more self awareness and am not afraid to be in denial about things. For example, I am aware of certain alterations that I need to make to patterns for a better fit – having sloping shoulders for instance is not a bad thing in the whole scheme of things and garments can look better if I actually make the alteration!

One thing I am trying to be more realistic about is my wardrobe and thus what I sew. At heart, I am a very practical person. I don’t get dressed up at home if I am not going out (actually, I wear old comfortable clothes). I don’t go out very much either, so not much need for those lovely dressy clothes that are so fun to plan and sew. I like to make stuff to wear for work, but if I am being real, I get fussy about what I will wear to work. It needs to be practical and comfortable

I am a special education teacher, working in a primary school in a low socio-economic area. The school is somewhat overcrowded and I don’t actually have a teaching space of my own. I go into other teacher’s classes and have to work within their space the best that I can. So I might be sitting on a chair next to a student’s desk, or I might have to kneel next to a student (and then move across the room to help other students) or I might sit on the floor with a group of students (I find it easier to sit on the floor with some of the work I do, since there are lots of flashcards and games and it is hard on my neck to bend down to make sure students are attending to the right information. I would like a big table for all of us to sit around, but there isn’t the space this year).

My point is, I need pants to sit and kneel on the floor. And with the weather the way it is in summer, I like light airy cotton tops so I don’t faint while on duty. The classrooms may be air-conditioned, but it is disgusting outside.

I have styled the new tops I have made with likely coordinates from my wardrobe. I wish I was more stylish but I got into the habit of not wearing dangly jewellery and putting my hair in a pony tail while at uni doing pracs and then working at a special school setting.

Red polka dot blouse #107 from Burda 6/2008

I have made this previously and since it was so a comfortable fit, I thought I would make it again. The red polka dot fabric was a recent purchase, and has a lovely smooth feel to it. I made the pleats in the bodice, but omitted the elastic (last time I did shirring here and it made it a little too tight for my liking).

As expected, it went together very nicely. I followed Gigi’s tutorial for a clean finish inside the collar stand. I chose white pearly shank buttons. I love this pattern for the lovely pleated sleeve as well as the pleats on the bodice. It makes the waist nip in nicely.

Pinstripe blouse

This is another Burda #107 from 6/2008. I was going to make it sleeveless (like Solvi's shirtdress and because I was a little short on fabric) but I found the semi-raglan sleeves cut in too much, and I realised I had just enough to cut the sleeves if I cut them out separately.

I love getting the nice finish on the collar stand. Outside is left, inside is pictured right.

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Anthropologie inspired trapeze top

My last Anthro knockoff was a dud but this one is a little better. Only because it has a belt to cinch it in correctly. The fabric store actually on cut a metre rather than the metre and a half I wanted for this top. I was able squeeze it in, with a back seam but there wasn’t enough to make some binding for the neck and underarms. I ended up using store bought stuff, but I was reminded why I hate using it. In the future, I will make my own again. I don’t really use it much and when I have needed it I have been able to use from the stash of handmade bias I had made when I was younger and obsessed with binding everything.

I used this pattern as a basis for the trapeze shape, and the other pattern for the neckline. The sleeves are from another Burda pattern. I didn’t want to add the sleeves but the straps where too thin without them. I suppose it looks more like the top I was trying to knock off. 

Spotty skirt and Swiss dot blouse (#125 from 05/2009, skirt a mishmash of patterns and drafting)

I love using my tried and tested patterns over and over, but I wanted something that would look similar to my fave twirly skirt pattern but was a little less time consuming to sew. I kept the front yoke piece and using a vintage Kwik Sew pattern at a guide, made a 6 gore flared skirt pattern. I made the pattern quite a while back, so I am not sure why I chose 6 gores over say 8. Maybe the Kwik Sew one has 6 gores?

Because I had used the same yoke piece for front and back, the back sits a little funny. And the gores stick out too much for my liking. I am not sure if it because the fabric I used is not drapey enough or because the amount of gores doesn’t distribute the flare the way my other gored skirts do. I was a little sad when I first sewed it (weeks ago) but now I am feeling pretty happy about the skirt.



The blouse pattern is actually a pattern for a shirtwaister. I loved the pleated sleeves and cuff but did not want it as a dress, so I stopped tracing the pattern after 55cm (which was based on another blouse pattern that I had recently traced). I am not sure what I was thinking when I cut it out the pattern for the first time from some expensive fabric. I must have figured that my last blouse had a collar and stand so this one would be a cinch.

The thing is, I traced it some time ago from a borrowed Burda and I had misplaced the directions. The other issue was I have lengthen blouse that I based the length of this blouse on, when I should have lengthened this one too before cutting out.

 

I love love love how the cuffs worked out. I used Gigi’s method for a clean finish here too. I am so glad a could apply buttonholes here too. When I first had it pinned, I thought my arms were too wide. I then realised that I was overlapping it too much plus I could use smaller buttons here.

 I also used a method for a clean finish facing - sew the interfacing to the right side of the facing, turn and fuse to the inside. I also topstitched.

I love the results of this blouse and while probably use it again with some changes (change the front facing a little, plus the length). There is just enough puff in the sleeve for my liking and it will be great when I can use a wider hem.