Thursday, July 07, 2011

Mulberry Jacket

I fell in love with curved lapels and collars when I made my last jacket. I wasn’t keen to make the exact same jacket pattern again so soon, so I began my search for another Burda jacket pattern.

I found what I wanted in pattern 111 from Burda 3/2009. I love that it is not too long, has princess seams and the sewn in belt was cute too.

I used a stretch cotton twill in a lovely Mulberry shade. It is actually a darker shade than my last jacket. I obviously gravitate towards the same colours. I picked stretch twill since it is fairly casual and comes in some great colours.

I followed Sherry’s RTW Tailoring Sewalong notes again. I think I will be referring to them everytime I make a jacket, because they are so helpful in achieving a lovely result.

I did change the yoke pattern piece. The piece is a combine front and back yoke, so there is no shoulder seam. While I did not mind the look of it I wasn’t sure if my sloping shoulder adjustment would work. So I drew a seam line at the shoulder points and added the front yoke piece to the front, while keeping the back as a yoke.

I just hope I was not too aggressive with my sloping shoulder adjustment. I made the same as I normally do but you can see the diagonal pulls. I wonder if I traced the shoulder point in the wrong spot or something.

Here is a closer view of the collar.

While I cut out the curved pockets and flaps, I ended up not using them. I thought they were a cute feature, but for whatever reason, did not feel like sewing them on at the time.

I am annoyed with the interfacing I chose. I used whisperweft which requires preshrinking. Except a lot of the beads of glue came off. Very hard to bond without the glue on there. Grr. Not sure whether to get textureweft next time, as it requires no shrinking or go for something entirely different altogether.

Here is a peek at the lining. While the lining likes to twist and squirm all over the place when cutting and handling, with the right needle and foot pressure it was a breeze to sew.


  1. I love that you used such a beautiful color for a casual jacket. I tend to gravitate toward purples too. It looks like it fits you beautifully. Do know about Fashion Sewing Supply? I love the interfacing from there. It does not shrink, and I have had great success with it.

  2. That's a great jacket; I love the color and the pattern details. I never noticed that pattern although I must have the Burda issue, so thanks for putting it on my radar!

  3. Great job on another jacket! I tend to gravitate toward the same colors, too. That's not a bad thing, I suppose, since it helps ward off indecision!

    I do the opposite of a sloped shoulder (square shoulder) and also find that different styles will fit just a little differently. Although I'm glad that Burda fit seems to be very consistent.

  4. Gorgeous jacket! That's one of my favorite colors too :)


Thanks - I love receiving comments.