I have been wanting to try these pants for some time. I have made the pattern up as shorts (well, long shorts) but not the full length with the flare. I love my flares. These pants have been muslined and adjusted (shifted the back legs towards the centre a la Sew-4-Fun, added length to side seams). It seemed to make a real difference at the muslin stage, but I can't see any real difference in the real thing - well, I will explain later.
Front view
Back view
Everything was pretty much straight forward, apart from not having made pants like this for a while and stretching my brain on the waistband/fly front/pocket order and treatment. The faced yoke is a little more tricky when it comes to inserting the fly than a regular waistband - I would prefer to sew the waistband onto the pants as a whole but you need to sew it on to the front and then back and then sew the side seams later, because of the pockets.
Now, have a look at the problem I have been trying to remedy. The diagonal lines under my butt. Blah.
Well, I can correct the problem without changing the pattern I have found - I just stick my butt out a little bit. Just a little. I tend to stand with my hips tilted forward which creates all sorts of wrinkles. I am still trying to figure out if I am cheating (and just need to learn to stand a different way) because I can't seem to get the wrinkles out any other way. Any opinions?
interesting - great pattern, love the yokes and the shape and flare of the leg is very nice.
ReplyDeleteI have been researching pants fitting recently and i can tell you something about the way pants fit - but can't give you the definitive answer.
A dress pant is designed so that the fabric at the back falls straight down from the fullest part of buttock. A jean is designed to contour in under butt apex and fit nicely to the back thigh underneath.
When you move your pelvic carriage into a more protuding position the fabric is able to drape gracefully from the apex. When you stand straight it wants to swing back in again. If you are wearing a lovely drapey fabric and you want to preserve that flowing look you would have to ensure that the inseam does not curve in too dramatically on its journey to the knee. If you have heavier fabric that wants to cling to the support of you leg you would need to taper the inseam in more sharply to remove some of that fabric excess.
In this way, fabric type will make all the difference to how it will hang.
They are nice pants! I have no idea on your dilemma, but I also tilt my pelvis forward (very bad for my back).
ReplyDeleteI think your pants look great! So nice of Mary Nanna to leave her comment. Seems very informative.
ReplyDeletei won't be describing this right, i just know it, but here goes:
ReplyDeletelaying the back pants pattern out flat, reduce the crotch width (the extension of the crotch point) by - and here's the hard part - anywhere from 1/4" to 1/2". you have to make your own determination. then you have to raise the point upwards by an amount that will pull that fabric enough to eliminate that downward drag. get it? you want to balance out the down-drag with a pull-up. the reduction of the point-width is to eliminate any bagginess under the tush. BUT you have to end up with the same number of inches in the final curve that you started with, so measure before you begin and keep track as you go. does that make any sense? good thing they don't pay me to teach this stuff.