Tuesday, December 18, 2012

The Tiramisu

This pattern made me realise I am a bit stuck in my ways, sewing wise. I was put out of my comfort zone a couple times and it wasn't in regards to the sewing portion at all.
#1: I am not a huge fan of paper tissue patterns. I always trace my patterns now and I hate am used to tracing on thick paper. Okay, so I got over that. It is not too hard, especially as the pattern pieces do not overlap. The tissue has also compacted back down to normal size.
#2: Cutting layout. I have been sewing knits for oodles of years. Have always folded along the grain - find the rib and fold along it. Easy. I found it hard to trust that the knit was okay folding it a different way, especially as the cutter had made a mess of the cut edge and it was way crooked.
#3: I had to cut it on the floor, as that is the only space I had wide enough. I hate intensely dislike cutting on the floor. the only other place wide enough would have been my dining table but I don't cut there in case of scratches.
My bindings were way off grain so I ended up recutting by first folding along the grain to make sure both sides of the fold were on grain.
According to the measurements, I was a 35A. When I test fitted, it was very loose, so I took the side seams in around 2cm on each side. Without the skirt, the top portion seemed to fit fine. It was still a little loose but according to the instructions, the dress ease was designed with a relaxed fit.
When I attached the skirt, I was underwhelmed with the result. The weight of the skirt drastically pulled down the bodice but at the same time there was bagginess to the side of the bust and in the armpit area.  This was mainly because of the very stretchy rayon elastane fabric I had used. It was a far from flattering look.

 I compared the 35A pattern I had used to the 30, and worked out the 30A was closest to the adjustments I had made/needed (narrower, less length). Luckily I had extra fabric to recut a new bodice.

The fit is now spot of and much more flattering and comfortable. The bustline is where it should be, there is no puffiness in the armpit area and the arm bindings are fitted how I like them.
 My favourite part would have to be the skirt. I love the drape the bias creates.
  I hardly ever buy patterns, let alone new and current ones but I had been super impressed with Steph's dedication and work ethic and of course the design and couldn't wait to try this pattern. Steph has done an awesome job with her first printed pattern. I love that she experimented and broke a lot of the traditional "rules" for sewing with knits. It challenged my mindset and I am excited about her future patterns.


  1. It looks wonderful and love your comments!!!

  2. Seeing so many great versions of this online is inspiring me to get on and sew my muslin of this dress.

    If you want to use your dining table to cut out on you could do what I do - cover the table with a piece of felt, then put a sheet of hardboard (cut to size) over the felt. I even use my rotary cutter directly on the hardboard - it does blunt the blade rather quickly, but the hardboard holds up surprisingly well.

  3. Oh that looks really lovely. A much better fit in the end. What a great colour fabric too.

  4. Good work sticking with it! the dress looks nice

  5. This looks great on you, and what a difference cutting a new size made! I plan to get to this pattern soon, but I'm even more interested after reading your review.


Thanks - I love receiving comments.