Toffy pants in denim

I thought it would be a good idea to make DD, DS and my jeans altogether. I finished the boy's pair an age ago, so it was about time to finish the girl's before I finished mine.

The pattern is Ottobre's Toffy pants (#15 from 4/2009) but with the pockets from #12. The Tulip pants (#12) are the girly version of the Toffy pants, but with the gathered wide legs, it was probably too baggy for my skinny minny. I liked the gathering on the front pockets and the pintucks on the back pockets though. The binding looked good too.

I find it hard to believe that I traced a size 116 for the girl. Of course, she is still 98 in the width (and I had to take it in more at the waist since there is no elastic).

Jalisa is thrilled with them. I am glad to get them finished and into her wardrobe where they are needed to the chilly weather we are having.

Pink Wool Burda jacket

I have spent the better part of today finishing the jacket and dress pictured here. I quickly snapped some photos because it is nearly time to do the pick up and I want to enter them into the local show this afternoon.

Both patterns are from Burda. The fuchsia jacket is #116 from 9/2005. I followed Sherry of the Scissors, Paper, Cloth blog's RTW Tailored Jacket Sewalong. If you haven't checked the sewalong out, you simply must. Sherry has generously demonstrated so many wonderful tricks of the trade and shared a lot of information.

The jacket I chose has curved panels on the front, curved lapels and collar, two piece set in sleeves (no vent though), and a back peplum with two back vents. I did leave these vents out, since I wasn't sure I would be able to bag out the lining with them plus the extra ease from the curvy hems at the back. I added bound buttonholes, since the wool crepe had become quite thick in the wash (yep, I just chucked it right in the washing machine, and the drier too!).

Here is the back view.

Side view

I tried to zoom in here to get the buttonholes. I take suc

Here is the jacket unbuttoned. It still looks pretty good. This is how I will wear it most probably.



I hate being lazy. I tried to take more photos, but I am really no good, so I gave up. I need to get the entry organised - one last press etc before it gets bagged up.

This boy cracks me up

This was Scott's favourite spot last week. He has to crawl through the dishwasher to get in.

I snapped some more photos of the boy's new clothes. The hoodie is from the newer version of Kwik Sew for Toddler. I made a size 4. Nothing special, just something to keep him warm in the cooler months. I had Wayne draw a picture of a hotrod to stitch on to the front. The fabric is polar fleece.

The pants are the Eskimo pattern from Ottobre 5/2006, #11. These were my trial pair in an 80 width and they were too wide. They are size 86 in the height, which is perfect for him, even though he is a lot taller than that. I had to use his inseam/outseam measurements to get it right. The thing is, I think there is a nappy allowance in the smaller sizes so I can't go too small without getting too baggy in the crotch. I used a beige coloured cotton fabric.

The back panels almost make a circle with their big , wide curves. The front panels only have a slight curve. It is an easy pattern, although the back panels look tricky to put together, they go in fast.

Here is a close up of the hot rod. I don't like how it picked up where I stopped and started, but I wasn't about to bin it when the mistakes are only noticed when you are very close.

I have been lazy

I have been lazy and not kept the blog updated. I have been a little bit stressed at work but I have been sewing as normal. Hopefully I should get a couple of posts up soon, since I have a few things to photograph.

I took these photos at night, as we were wearing the new clothes to church (so the photos are blurry - I am making them do)

First up is a off-white jumper for me. The pattern is Kwik Sew 742, size 10 (it is a vintage pattern, thus the different sizing). I added flared sleeves just to make it a little different from the last time I made it.
Pants from Ottobre 2/2005 (my favourite Otto). These are design #23 but lengthened as they are only short length. For my skinny minny child I use size 80 for the width and size 86 for the length (I used a different pattern for reference). Size 80 ended up being too wide still, so I removed some of the seam allowance, reducing each leg by about 2cm. They are still baggy but look more in proportion.

It was a lot harder to get the perfect length pants. Normally for shorts, it does not matter where they end, but I had to go through several trials to get the perfect length, and actually measure his inseam and outseam. I tried using his height measurement alone, and that just ended with super long, extremely baggy pants.

Jalisa's outfit: The tiered skirt doesn't have a pattern as such, just a formula. You start with the waist measurement and multiple anywhere from 1.5 - 2.5, depending on the fabric used. I went with 1.6, as I thought that is what I had used previously. When I later checked my notes, I found that 1.4 was adequate for baby cord fabric. You need to add hem, waist casing and seam allowances to the panels too. I made each teir the same length visually, so tier 1 and 3 end up being bigger since they have the hem and waist casing added.
The jumper is from Ottobre 5/2006 #22. Ottobre have it made in a drapey knit, but I thought it would make a good jumper. The fabric is the same off-white as my jumper. It is 100% acrylic but it is lovely to sew and very soft on the skin. I love the little sections that are shirred - at the front, top of sleeve and are the wrist.

I had originally bought this denim fabric for me, but I already had some other denim for my jeans and I thought my kids could do with some of their own jeans. The pattern is the same as Scott's pants above. I liked the patterns because it had a couple of cute features that wouldn't take me too much time to get through. I am really impatient when sewing kids clothes. Simple works for me and the kids. The pants have a faux fly, front pockets and back flaps. I used a green thread to topstitch.

It is supposed to have belt loops, but they annoy me when sewing and that part isn't shown under his shirts, so I did not bother.

At the moment I am working on a few things: a jacket for Sherry's RTW Tailored Jacket Sewalong, a dress for me and jeans for Jalisa. The jacket and dress will be entered in to the local show sometime this week. I have only to bag the hem and sew on the buttons on the jacket, and dress needs hemming and the lining sewn down.. I should be able to reveal the jacket very soon.

It made sense at the time...

Last weekend I decided I should make some more cropped pants for work. I had a couple of cuts that would work with Jalie 2909. I picked the black to start first. With only a few pattern pieces, and no extras, the pants went together quickly. Now I could have cut out and sewn a red pair (or kept working on the coat that I am in the middle of) but I thought that I would cut out a deep purple jumper.

You know, a jumper. Those things you wear in cool weather. It made sense at the time, something quick to whip up while the overlocker thread was the right colour. I would eventually get around to wearing it. I just wasn't thinking that I would need to snap some shots for the blog. Just wasn't thinking it was going to be the hottest day of the week when I finally had some time to take a photo.

The pattern is Kwik Sew 742, found in an op shop years ago when I was obsessed with collecting KS patterns.

I made the jumper at the end of the week and by this time I had totally forgotten about cropped pants for work and was thinking about cool weather sewing. So yesterday I made two tops that I can layer under jumpers or wear on their own when the weather is cool but not cold.

The purple is Jalie 2804 again. 3/4 sleeves and a gathered front panel ( I forgot about the gathering, I think I could have made it sit nicer if I felt like taking some more hot pictures). I was meant to have long sleeves, but there was a fault in the fabric so I ran out.

The blue is my TNT Kwik Sew 3003 ( crew neck drafted by me). The blue and purple fabric are a cotton/poly/elastane blend that I am hoping will wash up nicely. They sewed up rather nicely compared with the rayon/elastance blends that I like for tops.

If I am not working on my coat, my next project will be some red cropped pants, probably accompanied by a red jumper.

Keeping my mind off the floods

Much of Queensland is under water. My hometown of Ipswich was expecting record water levels but at 19.5m it did not quite get to the 1974 level. Thankfully the worst thing that has happened to family and friends is power lost and roads cut off. My heart goes out to the families where members lives have been lost. The events that happened on Tuesday the 11th were such a tragedy.



I have been weighing up whether it is appropriate to post that I have been sewing when so many have lost their possessions or at least their power. Sewing is my hobby but I use it as a time to reflect and pray. As I was sewing yesterday, I was just so thankful for my family being safe and sound.



This is Jalie 2804 - the empire crossover top. The pattern comes in a range of sizes, for children to plus size adult, and there are 4 sleeve options (sleeveless, cap, 3/4, long) and two front panel options (flat or gathered). I went with the flat front and cap sleeves.



Based on my measurements, I went with a size T. For reference, I use a Burda 38 for my upper body. I forgot to adjust for my sloped shoulders, so I ended up retro-fitting the shoulder area to get rid of the wrinkles. I used a hot pink viscose elastane fabric left over from a tee I made the other year.



It's a great fit, nice and fitted, but I don't like the way the modesty panel pulls at the sleeves. This is because the elastic is shorter than the panel length to fit snug to the body, but it just tries to compensate by stealing some of the sleeve and then gives some ugly wrinkles.

This Jalie pattern, when compared to my Kwik Sew patterns, has a lot more length. I decided that in the future, I would compare it and then reduce the length if I felt it was excessive. I feel it is a little unflattering as it stops at my widest point (a big no no for us pear shapes).

Well, the next day when I made it again, I shortened it by 6cm and did not bother with the modesty panel. I used a printed viscose elastane, from my local Bargain Box fabric store and eleccted to use the 3/4 sleeves, since I know that I will be needing them soon and my current ones are worn out.

I think this length is a little more flattering on me.

One of my goals for this year is to use more fabric than I buy. Instead of just shelving the leftover half metre, I thought I would cut out another top and sewing it up at the same time (you know, production line style).

This pattern is Kwik Sew 3032. It has some gathers at the front bust. My coverstitch machine was being a princess, so I sewed the neck and armhole seams with a zig zag stitch on my sewing machine. Before my CS machine, I would use a twin needle, but I was feeling rather lazy after threading and rethreading my touchy machine.

End of year post

As we will be busy with Christmas festivities and then going on our summer holiday, I am going to post a bit of a review of my sewing for the year.

I had a number of goals that I wanted to achieve this year. Here is my list, I am happy that I did quite a few of them. I did have a longer list than normal.

1. Winter coats for both the kids Only sewed Jalisa' coat
2. Flannelette PJs for both the kids Sewed PJs for Scott only
3. Sew up something using some ugly fabric
4. Jacket for me DONE
5. Sew something from a vintage pattern and post on Sew Retro
6. Little black dress for me DONE
7. Black pants for me DONE
8. Creative entry for the local show DONE
9. Discharge dyeing DONE
10. Tray dyeing using thickened dyed DONE
11. Make 4 pairs of work pants for DH
12. Make a body double DONE, just need to stuff it
13. Trial 12 new patterns for me DONE, I managed 16

In 2010, with everything included, I sewed a total of 74 things. 33 things were for the kids (including clothes, undies and bags).

The unwritten goal I was aiming to do this year was to do a lot more 'me' sewing. This year I sewed up 41 items for me.

• Dress = 5 (including 2 new patterns)
• Skirts = 3 (1 new pattern)
• Pants and shorts = 9 (5 new patterns)
• Blouses, tees and cardigans = 11 (6 new patterns)
• Jackets = 2 (2 new patterns)
• PJs and undies = 11 (1 new pattern)

I think I met that goals. Overall I am pleased with all the sewing I have done this year.

Jalie 2909 - Stretch pants

I love reading sewing blogs. There are some fabulous ones out there. One thing that I don't get, that I wish I could do, is sew something, then wait and get all done up and then take photos. Love it, but I don't have a lot of patience, and I want to show off what I have done to my sewing buddies at Crafty Mamas. See, I finished my Jalie shorts then raced out to snap pictures. No makeup, hair every which way, old top with singlet that is sticking out....I just don't wait. One day I will learn.

There is a lot of love for this pattern, so when CM (see link above") did a Jalie buy, this was the first one I knew I wanted. Simple pants, with rave reviews about a great cut. Now, being summer here is Australia, I knew I did not need pants, but shortened, they would be fab.

I went with a green rayon blend Bengaline from the stash. I knew this fabric was stretchy, but I did not realise that the stretch runs lengthwise (rather than crosswise). I had already cut out and sewn the fly before I realised. Luckily, I had bought enough fabric to cut out another pair. For Jalie bottoms, U seems to be the right size for me.

When I tried them on before sewing on the waistband, I realised that I was going to have to make some adjustments. I had a lightbulb moment when I researched the frowns that were appearing at the front that I might need to reduce the length of the front crotch seam. For some reason, I just was accepting this little extra bit, but having tried on several pants and pinching the front, I could see that the front instantly looked better with a smidge less length there.

The other thing that was bugging me was the extra folds under my butt. With lots of research, I ended up scooping out the crotch (which lengthens) and then taking out at the top of the seam. This works for the moment, since I have made up the pants already and could not recut, but the actual alteration is a little wedge removed from somewhere along the back crotch seam (not right at the top). I have since gone on to make these adjustments on some other pants patterns, so hopefully it is the right one. It is an improvement, and that is what matters to me at the moment.

Ottobre 3-way dress

Gosh, this dress was quick to make. Actually, it was quick to sew, being a pillowcase type dress (Ottobre 3/2009, #18). I had to hand dye the fabric and that took two separate occassions due to storms (and me rushing to get the fabric dyed before it rained down on me). Each piece of fabric wasn't perfect but there was enough between them make a good rainbow dress.

For the front piece, I cut from the graduated rainbow fabric.

For the back, I used the more random rainbow piece.

For the dyeing, I laid it on some other fabric to soak up the excess dye. I think it would work better with a 100% polyester fleece, but I need to buy some because I plan to use what I have on hand. I used procion dye on a stretch poplin, squirting it on and then using a paintbrush to soften where the colours blended.

I have another one cut, this time a plain + print combo, then I am going to make Jalisa a halterneck dress with flared skirt.

Burda dress for Summer

While I was trying to find inspiration in the sewing room, I came across this fabric that my SIL gave me many years ago. Despite not digging this print 100%, there was something about the fabric that kept me holding onto it and it was never chucked out in my recent clearout. It's actually a polished cotton. Clear colours with a tropical theme. I thought it would make a good dress to wear while on holidays. This time last year I made a couple of tropical print dresses. Maybe this will be a tradition - my version of those loud hawaiian shirts.

I used #123 from Burda 6/2005. Actually, this way one of the patterns for one of those dresses, but this time I morphed it onto a pattern with a flared skirt (just like I did my last Burda dress).

I like the look of a fuller skirt, especially for everyday wear. Sitting down is so much easier and there is a chance of not flashing my undies when I have to pick stuff up (like Scott's thong at the supermarket today).

This pattern has princess seams and a square neckline. The back is really high, which makes it a little hard to zip up. I really like the straps, which are curved slightly to sit flush with the skin and allow a narrower front than back.